Ciao!
We've finally arrived in BELLA ROMA!
Our last day in Madrid didn't quite go as planned, because all of the trains to Toledo were booked! Apparently the phrase HOLY TOLEDO refers to the line trying to buy tickets and not actually the small city itself. So instead of exploring the former capital of spain, we stuck to the current one. The weather in Madrid was beautiful the whole time we were there, but our last day was especially lovely, so Madeline and I packed up a lunch and headed for a beautiful park in the Centro. We spend four hours there, reading, sleeping (don't worry, we took turns) and soaking up the Vitamin D I have needed since running out of my SUNNY GUMMIES! We went back to the small subarb, Torrajon, where we were staying with our hosts, Pancho and Anis, made dinner and spent the evening swapping youtube videos.
Using Couchsurfing ended up being the perfect decision. Even though we were a little disappointed to be a ways outside the city (about 45 minutes), we saved upwarts of 60 Euros on lodging and got to see Madrid through the eyes of locals. Well, and a Frenchman. Anis did say that if you want to truly experience Spain, Madrid is probably not the place to do it- instead, he suggested, try the smaller towns in Southern Spain. I think I would agree. We enjoyed Madrid, but it was hard to escape the touristy centers without being in the middle of nowhere. Hard to find the Spanish life.
Not so in Italy. Since arriving yesterday morning in Rome, I feel so much more at home! Even just in the week I spent here two years ago, I feel decently equiped to make my way around the city (I can also find Campo di Fiori and can tell Matt when it's time to go!)
We spent Most of yesterday exploring the Colloseum, but didn't go inside, and the ancient Roman ruins around it. We wandered through the old Jewish Ghetto and found a little hidden bakery where I got what tasted like flat benets (sp?)... mmmmmm Powered sugar.
We took a siesta, as one does in Italy, and then went to the Pantheon for dinner and had Gelato at FR. Cobb's favorite place Giolitti's! So good!
This morning we walked to the other side of town to the Vatican. I had forgotten today was Ash Wednesday and was very confused why it was bustling with people more so than it was in July. It was amazing though, and I sat in on a Mass going on at one of the minor Chapels in St. Peter's.
After exploring the church for about an hour, and me imparting all of my Roman wisdom onto Matt, we hiked the 300+ steps to the top of the dome and enjoyed the breathtaking view of the Vatican and the surrounding area. I bought some postcards at the top and am especially happy that I found a little St. Christopher charm.
Matt and I then split ways, and I went to Campo di Fiori (where we stayed two years ago)and ate lunch at a little bistro called Forno, that my friend Sonya had suggested.
Italy is truly something special. There is a passion for life, for beauty, that exists here that simply doesn't other places. I forget everytime I leave and think that I've been here enough times, that I've seen what there is to see. But I think in some places, it isn't what there is to see that is facinating and worthwhile, it is the feeling, the lifestyle, that is embedded in every facet of the culture...
Tomorrow morning I'm meeting up with Dr. Andrews for a coffee and a little chat, which will be great! I loved spending time with him in Italy two years ago and I'm excited to hear about his sabatical and the things he's working on!
Ah. La bella vita. Can't complain. truly can't.
Love you all, happy lent.
Tess
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Madrid: museums, markets, and prawns!
Whew.
Our feet are about to fall off. I'll just write a quick note before Madeline and I sit down with a glass of wine to sit and enjoy our last real night in Madrid. Yesterday we had a very relaxed day and enjoyed each others' company and the winding spanish streets.
Today however, we woke up early and visited the local weekly flee market. It was fun to explore a bit of a different part of the city, but we definitely heard more english then we were used to over the past few days. Much of it was like the any normal market - it looked a lot like Florence - but it was neat to see the spanish twist on it! There was one market for antiques, one for purses - you could even buy underwear!
After the market we enjoyed what seems to be the most traditional food in Madrid - Churros! Normally enjoyed around 6am with chocolate to soak up alcohol, we enjoyed our 60 cents worth throughout midday. We then made our way toward the Prado, the most traditional art museum in Madrid. It was very interesting to see a lot of Goya and a few other names I recognized, but we really enjoyed ourselves when we popped across the street to the Carmen Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum where they had more modern works and was highly organized! (points from anal tess) There we got to see many impressionist pieces as well as loads of modern- they even had a Lichtenstein!
Post Museums, we wandered through the winding streets, sometimes ending up in places we wanted to, often not. Eventually we settled down for dinner and although our waiter was quite rude and my prawns still had heads (!!), we enjoyed it all.
Ah! Another sweatshirtless day! Tomorrow we are going to wake up early and take a train to Toledo to spend our last day together there. Madeline is then leaving me (sniff sniff) and I will continue my trip to Rome!
Ciao,
Tess
Our feet are about to fall off. I'll just write a quick note before Madeline and I sit down with a glass of wine to sit and enjoy our last real night in Madrid. Yesterday we had a very relaxed day and enjoyed each others' company and the winding spanish streets.
Today however, we woke up early and visited the local weekly flee market. It was fun to explore a bit of a different part of the city, but we definitely heard more english then we were used to over the past few days. Much of it was like the any normal market - it looked a lot like Florence - but it was neat to see the spanish twist on it! There was one market for antiques, one for purses - you could even buy underwear!
After the market we enjoyed what seems to be the most traditional food in Madrid - Churros! Normally enjoyed around 6am with chocolate to soak up alcohol, we enjoyed our 60 cents worth throughout midday. We then made our way toward the Prado, the most traditional art museum in Madrid. It was very interesting to see a lot of Goya and a few other names I recognized, but we really enjoyed ourselves when we popped across the street to the Carmen Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum where they had more modern works and was highly organized! (points from anal tess) There we got to see many impressionist pieces as well as loads of modern- they even had a Lichtenstein!
Post Museums, we wandered through the winding streets, sometimes ending up in places we wanted to, often not. Eventually we settled down for dinner and although our waiter was quite rude and my prawns still had heads (!!), we enjoyed it all.
Ah! Another sweatshirtless day! Tomorrow we are going to wake up early and take a train to Toledo to spend our last day together there. Madeline is then leaving me (sniff sniff) and I will continue my trip to Rome!
Ciao,
Tess
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Madrid! Carnaval and couches
I'm in Madrdid!
Madeline, Matt and I arrived on Thursday to begin our ten days of traveling during our "spring break". we refused to call it that because it is February and there was snow on the ground when we left!
Anyway, we have had quite the adventure so far. Last minute we decided to use the website couchsurfing to find a place to stay. It is an online community of travelers who are all interested in meeting new people and getting to know new cultures. So we are staying with a Frenchman, Anis, and his Spanish roommate, Pancho (it's a nickname!). They have been fantastic and it addition to obviously knowing the city and what it important to do in Madrid- something I would suggest looking up whenever you travel - they have also taken us out! Thursday night we went to a bar where they zas a meeting of international people, called a language exchange. And lasr night is when carnival started, so everywhere there were people dressed in costumes - very very similar to our halloween. It was so funny though, I think there must have been a sale on Princess Lea costumes - there were tons of them. we met many cross dressers, a few pacmen, and a lot of chaquita (like the bananas) women!
Oh! and we also saw some sites. Yesterday we toured around a bit in the main centro area, around peutro del sol. We bought a mini guide book and made our way to the banco espana, the cathedral, the palais real, the gran via - we're pretty sure we covered most of the main highlights. Tomorrow we plan on going to the three main museums and go to the flee market!
Being here actually just makes me miss Italy, I tihnk because they are similar cultures. I keep confusing the little Italian I konw with the little Spanish I know!
We want to start our day, so I'm going to get going! This keyboard is also french and very difficult to write on!
Ciao!
Tess
Madeline, Matt and I arrived on Thursday to begin our ten days of traveling during our "spring break". we refused to call it that because it is February and there was snow on the ground when we left!
Anyway, we have had quite the adventure so far. Last minute we decided to use the website couchsurfing to find a place to stay. It is an online community of travelers who are all interested in meeting new people and getting to know new cultures. So we are staying with a Frenchman, Anis, and his Spanish roommate, Pancho (it's a nickname!). They have been fantastic and it addition to obviously knowing the city and what it important to do in Madrid- something I would suggest looking up whenever you travel - they have also taken us out! Thursday night we went to a bar where they zas a meeting of international people, called a language exchange. And lasr night is when carnival started, so everywhere there were people dressed in costumes - very very similar to our halloween. It was so funny though, I think there must have been a sale on Princess Lea costumes - there were tons of them. we met many cross dressers, a few pacmen, and a lot of chaquita (like the bananas) women!
Oh! and we also saw some sites. Yesterday we toured around a bit in the main centro area, around peutro del sol. We bought a mini guide book and made our way to the banco espana, the cathedral, the palais real, the gran via - we're pretty sure we covered most of the main highlights. Tomorrow we plan on going to the three main museums and go to the flee market!
Being here actually just makes me miss Italy, I tihnk because they are similar cultures. I keep confusing the little Italian I konw with the little Spanish I know!
We want to start our day, so I'm going to get going! This keyboard is also french and very difficult to write on!
Ciao!
Tess
Monday, February 16, 2009
Oslo, Paris, and on to Madrid!
Liebe amerikanische Freunde,
I apologize for being rather lax on my blog updating! It’s been a bit crazy since I got back from Norway on Tuesday.
I flew up to Norway last two Thursdays ago to visit my friend Lucas Franco from Seattle U for the weekend. Lucas recently had an accident, which, added to the snow, greatly reduced his mobility around town, but we had a great time anyway!
I spent the first two days catching up and hanging out with him and his parents, Gary and Alberta. Lucas is doing his masters degree in peace and conflict studies at the University of Oslo and has been there since June, so he made a list of things for me to do and sent me out with his dad on my third day in town. We trekked through the sculpture park, saw the royal castle, explored downtown a bit, saw the harbor and fell asleep in a coffee shop! Gary is quite a hoot (god, I AM my mother), so it’s like traveling with your own pocket philosopher. By the end of the day, we were exhausted- the snow in Oslo was up to my knees and quite difficult to walk through!
The next day, Lucas’ roommate, Dan from the Midwest, and his friend, Max from Germany, took me out cross-country skiing. A common mistake that many people make is that because I’m from Alaska, I must be good at outdoorsy sports and things. I’m not, I’m awful at all of them. They were incredibly great though, and very patient as a hacked away at the snow banks, fell over, and was continually stared at by the onlooking Norwegians. Probably because I was wearing Gary’s rain pants and a wool peacoat. I wasn’t quite a chic as they all are!
Anyway, it was great to see Lucas and his family and fun to have a bit of a relaxing time outside of Berlin. My trip home as not as relaxing, however. I was only supposed to be in Paris for 45 minutes on my way home (I know it sounds really out of the way to fly through Paris, but I didn’t realize there was a direct flight!). Instead, I had 24 hours there due to massive wind storms! Air France was nice enough to put me up in a hotel and feed me for the night, which I suppose was unusual for airlines, but I don’t do well when plans change, and I was very upset. Who would have thought that my first bit of homesickness would have been FOR Germany, and not against it!
Now I’m home, safe, and mostly warm. We have midterms this week, so this weekend has been spent reading, note taking, and trying to catch up after France stole a few of my school days. ☺ I had a fun weekend though regardless- On Saturday, we all went to the soccer game between Hertha Berlin and Bayern Munich. It was exciting to be in the environment, even though I’m not a big fan. But we won! And against Bayern— I don't know anything about soccer and know that's impressive!
This coming Thursday, Madeline and I are going to Madrid for four days and then I’m meeting up with our friend Matt and we’re going to Rome for another few days. I keep having these ideas that I’m going to get off the plane and suddenly want to wear flipflops, but from what I remember from 4 years ago in Barelona, it wasn’t even that warm in April! Maybe I will pack a sweater.
I hope you’re all doing splendidly and that you had a very happy Valentine’s Day!
Deine,
Tess
P.S. Here are a few photos! -- a castle, gary showing me around a sculpture park, dressed in full garb at the game!



I apologize for being rather lax on my blog updating! It’s been a bit crazy since I got back from Norway on Tuesday.
I flew up to Norway last two Thursdays ago to visit my friend Lucas Franco from Seattle U for the weekend. Lucas recently had an accident, which, added to the snow, greatly reduced his mobility around town, but we had a great time anyway!
I spent the first two days catching up and hanging out with him and his parents, Gary and Alberta. Lucas is doing his masters degree in peace and conflict studies at the University of Oslo and has been there since June, so he made a list of things for me to do and sent me out with his dad on my third day in town. We trekked through the sculpture park, saw the royal castle, explored downtown a bit, saw the harbor and fell asleep in a coffee shop! Gary is quite a hoot (god, I AM my mother), so it’s like traveling with your own pocket philosopher. By the end of the day, we were exhausted- the snow in Oslo was up to my knees and quite difficult to walk through!
The next day, Lucas’ roommate, Dan from the Midwest, and his friend, Max from Germany, took me out cross-country skiing. A common mistake that many people make is that because I’m from Alaska, I must be good at outdoorsy sports and things. I’m not, I’m awful at all of them. They were incredibly great though, and very patient as a hacked away at the snow banks, fell over, and was continually stared at by the onlooking Norwegians. Probably because I was wearing Gary’s rain pants and a wool peacoat. I wasn’t quite a chic as they all are!
Anyway, it was great to see Lucas and his family and fun to have a bit of a relaxing time outside of Berlin. My trip home as not as relaxing, however. I was only supposed to be in Paris for 45 minutes on my way home (I know it sounds really out of the way to fly through Paris, but I didn’t realize there was a direct flight!). Instead, I had 24 hours there due to massive wind storms! Air France was nice enough to put me up in a hotel and feed me for the night, which I suppose was unusual for airlines, but I don’t do well when plans change, and I was very upset. Who would have thought that my first bit of homesickness would have been FOR Germany, and not against it!
Now I’m home, safe, and mostly warm. We have midterms this week, so this weekend has been spent reading, note taking, and trying to catch up after France stole a few of my school days. ☺ I had a fun weekend though regardless- On Saturday, we all went to the soccer game between Hertha Berlin and Bayern Munich. It was exciting to be in the environment, even though I’m not a big fan. But we won! And against Bayern— I don't know anything about soccer and know that's impressive!
This coming Thursday, Madeline and I are going to Madrid for four days and then I’m meeting up with our friend Matt and we’re going to Rome for another few days. I keep having these ideas that I’m going to get off the plane and suddenly want to wear flipflops, but from what I remember from 4 years ago in Barelona, it wasn’t even that warm in April! Maybe I will pack a sweater.
I hope you’re all doing splendidly and that you had a very happy Valentine’s Day!
Deine,
Tess
P.S. Here are a few photos! -- a castle, gary showing me around a sculpture park, dressed in full garb at the game!
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Perspectives of an Ami
I think that in flying over eight/nine time zones that the speed of time also increased. I'm quite sure that I have neither been in Berlin for the month my calendar claims I have nor could it possibly be February already. Wow!
This past week I went to the Allied Museum, an old Stasi interrogation jail, and spent last night wandering the city for the Long Night of the Museums! I have also begun planning my trips outside of Germany and just today, booked some tickets! I can't believe I only have six months left.
For each of our content courses (courses outside of those in German Language), we need to attend different museums or installations around the city. So on Tuesday, for our course on Integration and Security, Madeline and I went to the Allied Museum. It tells the story of the relationship between Germany and the Allies in the post-war years, especially focusing on the West Berlin Airlift in 1948-49. Much of the museum is dedicated to honoring the mostly American troops and civilians who are perceived as bringing democracy and invited Westernization to Germany.
The museum was interesting and definitely provided an accessible source of Cold War knowledge. And although it was very much favorable toward the States, I felt out of place and unsure of the responsibility I had there. Being not overly patriotic, to say the least, it is normally quite easy for me to be overly critical and disassociate myself with my homeland. I would say that the majority of Germans share my opinion about the U.S.: the government has sucked for the past 8 years, a lot of the people are uneducated and ignorant, most of us are arrogant, but there are some fantastic people too and they thankfully don't hold the negative things against us. But then to attend a museum dedicated in gratefulness to the "hospitality" shown by the U.S., I don't know how to take positive responsibility for it. They had some "artifacts" from the Cold War period in my Germany and my heart hurt a little when I saw the blue and white U.S. Postal Service box...
Friday morning we had another full group excursion where we bundled up, piled in trams, and dragged our tired feet to what used to be a Stasi jail and interrogation facility. During the Soviet occupation period (1945 -1949), it was a much more crude holding facility where inmates (anyone from anti-socialists to capitalists to nazis) were barely given bread and watery soup. These are a few pictures of some of the torture methods used. One of them is called water torture... but of course we don't use that one anymore.

When East Germany was founded in 1949, the Stasi (E. German secret police) took over and built a building next to the existing one. Although the Stasi is not thought to have used physical violence, their methods of emotional and psychological torture are ridiculously intricate and sophisticated. At its height, the Stasi employed more than 90,000 people, none of whom were professionally punished after the fall of the wall. Al of the doctors who broke all oaths of secrecy, all of the psychologists who used their degrees for harm and inhumane treatment, all of the people who caused undeserved jailtime, familial separation, and death still have their licenses, jobs and are still living here. I know there were a lot of redeemable qualities about East Germany, but the Stasi sure wasn't one of them.

This is one of the interrogation rooms used. There is so much strategic symbolism in where everything is placed, even in how the interrogator dresses and interacts with the prisoner.
The tour was very informative, if not bloody cold, but it's still very difficult to imagine the types of things that were happening to innocent people 20 years ago.
Yesterday I did a lot a homework- I wrote a three page paper all in German!- and then met up with my German friend Marco and three Americans friends and we went to what is called the Long night at the Museums. We walked around the Bode Museum on Museum Island and then went to a museum behind the Neue Wache where we watched a neat concert of like Indian/Pakistani music meets Japanese meets American blues. And although I was exhausted and had to sit on the floor, it was really neat. I will post the name later, but I would definitely look it up.
All in all, it's been a good week. It's ridiculous how completely immersed in the culture we all are here. Even if you miss one point the professor makes in class, chances are you'll read about it in reading, talk about it with your host family, or randomly come across it again on an outing. So crazy. Maybe I don't need to study for tests, I can just learn through immersion! Just kidding, Fr. Cobb!
Speaking of cultural immersion, I've planned some trips for the coming few months and just bought tickets today! On Thursday, I'm flying up to Norway where my friend Lucas, from Seattle U is getting his masters. I'll just be there for the weekend, but it will be nice to get out of Berlin for a minute and see him! Then two weeks after that, I'm going to Spain with Madeline for our week long "spring break". I don't know if you can call it spring break when it's in february and it's still 54 degrees in Madrid, but it will be lots of fun! Then, I have a friend who is staying in Florence, so Madeline and I are going down there for a weekend as well! Finally, we have our full group excursion to Paris and Amsterdam coming up in the end of March, which leads us right up to the end of the semester when I should probably be studying anyway!!
If anyone has any suggestions of things to do in these places or places to go (or avoid) and people to see, let me know! Especially Spain!
Well, it's Sunday afternoon and unfortunately, the last page of my German essay just won't write itself. I love hearing from you all, so drop me a line sometime!
Again, I love you all so much and just the fact that you are reading this (and have reached the end) means the world to me.
Love,
Tess
This past week I went to the Allied Museum, an old Stasi interrogation jail, and spent last night wandering the city for the Long Night of the Museums! I have also begun planning my trips outside of Germany and just today, booked some tickets! I can't believe I only have six months left.
For each of our content courses (courses outside of those in German Language), we need to attend different museums or installations around the city. So on Tuesday, for our course on Integration and Security, Madeline and I went to the Allied Museum. It tells the story of the relationship between Germany and the Allies in the post-war years, especially focusing on the West Berlin Airlift in 1948-49. Much of the museum is dedicated to honoring the mostly American troops and civilians who are perceived as bringing democracy and invited Westernization to Germany.
The museum was interesting and definitely provided an accessible source of Cold War knowledge. And although it was very much favorable toward the States, I felt out of place and unsure of the responsibility I had there. Being not overly patriotic, to say the least, it is normally quite easy for me to be overly critical and disassociate myself with my homeland. I would say that the majority of Germans share my opinion about the U.S.: the government has sucked for the past 8 years, a lot of the people are uneducated and ignorant, most of us are arrogant, but there are some fantastic people too and they thankfully don't hold the negative things against us. But then to attend a museum dedicated in gratefulness to the "hospitality" shown by the U.S., I don't know how to take positive responsibility for it. They had some "artifacts" from the Cold War period in my Germany and my heart hurt a little when I saw the blue and white U.S. Postal Service box...
Friday morning we had another full group excursion where we bundled up, piled in trams, and dragged our tired feet to what used to be a Stasi jail and interrogation facility. During the Soviet occupation period (1945 -1949), it was a much more crude holding facility where inmates (anyone from anti-socialists to capitalists to nazis) were barely given bread and watery soup. These are a few pictures of some of the torture methods used. One of them is called water torture... but of course we don't use that one anymore.
When East Germany was founded in 1949, the Stasi (E. German secret police) took over and built a building next to the existing one. Although the Stasi is not thought to have used physical violence, their methods of emotional and psychological torture are ridiculously intricate and sophisticated. At its height, the Stasi employed more than 90,000 people, none of whom were professionally punished after the fall of the wall. Al of the doctors who broke all oaths of secrecy, all of the psychologists who used their degrees for harm and inhumane treatment, all of the people who caused undeserved jailtime, familial separation, and death still have their licenses, jobs and are still living here. I know there were a lot of redeemable qualities about East Germany, but the Stasi sure wasn't one of them.
This is one of the interrogation rooms used. There is so much strategic symbolism in where everything is placed, even in how the interrogator dresses and interacts with the prisoner.
The tour was very informative, if not bloody cold, but it's still very difficult to imagine the types of things that were happening to innocent people 20 years ago.
Yesterday I did a lot a homework- I wrote a three page paper all in German!- and then met up with my German friend Marco and three Americans friends and we went to what is called the Long night at the Museums. We walked around the Bode Museum on Museum Island and then went to a museum behind the Neue Wache where we watched a neat concert of like Indian/Pakistani music meets Japanese meets American blues. And although I was exhausted and had to sit on the floor, it was really neat. I will post the name later, but I would definitely look it up.
All in all, it's been a good week. It's ridiculous how completely immersed in the culture we all are here. Even if you miss one point the professor makes in class, chances are you'll read about it in reading, talk about it with your host family, or randomly come across it again on an outing. So crazy. Maybe I don't need to study for tests, I can just learn through immersion! Just kidding, Fr. Cobb!
Speaking of cultural immersion, I've planned some trips for the coming few months and just bought tickets today! On Thursday, I'm flying up to Norway where my friend Lucas, from Seattle U is getting his masters. I'll just be there for the weekend, but it will be nice to get out of Berlin for a minute and see him! Then two weeks after that, I'm going to Spain with Madeline for our week long "spring break". I don't know if you can call it spring break when it's in february and it's still 54 degrees in Madrid, but it will be lots of fun! Then, I have a friend who is staying in Florence, so Madeline and I are going down there for a weekend as well! Finally, we have our full group excursion to Paris and Amsterdam coming up in the end of March, which leads us right up to the end of the semester when I should probably be studying anyway!!
If anyone has any suggestions of things to do in these places or places to go (or avoid) and people to see, let me know! Especially Spain!
Well, it's Sunday afternoon and unfortunately, the last page of my German essay just won't write itself. I love hearing from you all, so drop me a line sometime!
Again, I love you all so much and just the fact that you are reading this (and have reached the end) means the world to me.
Love,
Tess
Love-Post
I just wanted to tell you all how much I love and appreciate you. I am so thankful everyday that I have people in my life who support me, and I can never express how much I cherish you all.
Love love love,
Tess
Love love love,
Tess
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